Hiking Rocky Mountain National Park: Lumpy Ridge, Twin Owls, and Gem Lake

Some lumpy rock formations on the Lumpy Ridge Trail

When I first moved to Fort Collins to study wildlife biology at CSU in 2000, one of my favorite hikes in nearby Rocky Mountain National Park was the Gem Lake Trail. Because the trailhead was outside of the park proper, accessible via a conservation easement granted by MacGregor Ranch, it was sort of a well-kept secret. You often did not need to have a park pass to hike, since passing through the official ranger entrance was not required, so many of us cash-strapped students enjoyed this moderate, short hike on a Sunday morning. Since then, the National Park Service has opened up more trails and climbers’ access to the Twin Owls rock formations that sit near Gem Lake, and the parking lot is now paved (about 24 parking spots vs.  8 or 12), has rest room facilities, and better signage.  Last week I returned to hike the Lumpy Ridge/Twin Owls/Gem Lake trail. Here’s a great link that will tell you more: http://www.protrails.com/trails/view/17

One reason I really like this trail is that I don’t have to drive into the crowded tourist town of Estes Park. I actually burn less gas, as I approach the trailhead from Fort Collins by taking Devils Gulch Road vs. Highway 34 into park. Not only are there fewer cars on the road, but fewer people on the trail once you arrive.

Protrails (see link above) states that the entire loop for this hike is just over 11 miles. We didn’t have that much time, so we did an abbreviated hike. At the trailhead, you can opt to go right—straight up to Gem lake—or left. We went left and walked past the stunning Twin Owls. Since 2000, the park has opened up routes to Twin Owls for climbers. However, from March 1until July 31, these ascending/descending routes are closed so that bird-of-prey species are undisturbed during the breeding and nesting seasons. This doesn’t mean you can’t hike the trail. You just can’t take the climbing routes and access trails to the actual formations. (I wanted to post a photo of the Twin Owls, but blogspot keeps turning the photo on its side! So here's the shot, of owls on their backs!)

I have always loved seeing the Twin Owls from a distance when I enter Rocky Mountain National Park. We got married at the Stanley Hotel in Estes, very close to the Owls, and actually did the Gem Lake hike the morning of our wedding. It was a real thrill to be hiking the trail that winds right in front of these formations.

On our hike, when we got to the fork in the trail we headed in the direction of Gem Lake. This is a steep hike. Keep this in mind if you have people who may need extra time, or maybe some climbing poles for the ascent and descent. Not horrible by any means, but steep. You may be winded.

Rocky Mountain NP can get very busy between Memorial Day and Labor Day. Consider this less well-known hike when you want to see snow-capped peaks, smell forest smells, eat beside a clear mountain lake, and escape for a few hours.

We took a backpack with lunch for our arrival at Gem Lake. Sandwiches, dessert, beverages. It's quite windy up there, so take extra layers to wear once you've cooled down.

Gem lake, deliberately blurry and in sepia tone. Many golden-mantled ground squirrels tried to steal our sandwiches. One ran into my backpack.

Summer Road Trip Planning: Scottsbluff, Nebraska

A photo of the bluffs that I took in 2003. Not much has changed.

Many of us have begun happily daydreaming about the vacations we'll be taking in the upcoming months. I personally prefer to drive versus fly because I love stopping at roadside attractions along the way, like cool old diners, kitschy tourist traps, natural areas, and historic markers. A vehicle is also great if you're bringing along camping gear, bicycles, and dogs.

This summer, if any of my readers are heading near western Nebraska (or even within a hundred miles), I highly recommend a stop at Scottsbluff National Monument. Because I have family in the area, I tend to take this historic site for granted, but its place in American history is well-deserved. Anyone who's driven from Missouri's western banks of the Mississippi out across the Great Plains heading west will attest to how long and monotonous this ride can be. Now imagine you're not in a car, but rather doing this route in a Conestoga wagon, making about 11 miles per day. This is what white pioneer settlers experienced when trekking across the Oregon Trail to the Pacific. Imagine their relief when, after months of flat and endless prairie, they could spot these bluffs on the horizon, signaling that they were closer than ever to the Rockies (although still quite a distance away).

At Scottsbluff NM, you can put your hands into the wagon wheel ruts of the Oregon Trail. Views of the surrounding landscape from the top of the bluff are all-encompassing, and the visitor center features great interpretive displays and friendly staff to answer questions. You can also ask there if someone in your party could use a wheelchair up on the bluff trails.

Related to Scottsbluff NM and nearby is Chimney Rock. From the National Park Service website:

Designated the Chimney Rock National Historic Site, Chimney Rock is one of the most famous and recognizable landmarks for pioneer travelers on the Oregon, California, and Mormon Trails, a symbol of the great western migration. Located approximately four miles south of present-day Bayard in Millard County, at the south edge of the North Platte River Valley, Chimney Rock is a natural geologic formation, a remnant of the erosion of the bluffs at the edge of the North Platte Valley. A slender spire rises 325 feet from a conical base. The imposing formation, composed of layers of volcanic ash and brule clay dating back to the Oligocene Age (34 million to 23 million years ago), towers 480 feet above the North Platte River Valley. 


A road trip heading west (or east) along Interstate 80 can get a little dull without some diversions. Consider western Nebraska history if you find yourself in these parts this summer. Other fun things to do include hitting the Cabella's Outdoor Outfitters store in Sidney (lots of interesting taxidermy specimens of big game) and stopping along the way to visit historic Pony Express sites. And in the town of Ogallala, you can also check out their famous "Boot Hill," the cemetery for cowboys,outlaws and drifters. Why is the graveyard called Boot Hill? From the Visit Ogallala website:

Most were buried with their boots on, thus the name Boot Hill. The bodies, placed in canvas sacks, were lowered into shallow graves and marked with a wooden headboard. Boot Hill is unique –buried in its sod are the many stories of the early days of Ogallala.


Western Nebraska deserves a few hours of your time, especially if you're heading on to larger landscapes in the mountainous west. The Scottsbluff area played a large part in the settlers' westward migration and is full of  cultural and historical attractions (not to mention a zoo for the kids). You can find out more at this website: www.VisitScottsbluff.com

Happy trails!

Spring in Laporte

Click on the garden toad image to find out more about this painting

Spring has definitely sprung around here, with the warm weather, greening of grasses, and budding of colorful tree blossoms. The flora is reawakening, and so, evidently, is the fauna. At least the bird activity has increased.

In the last two weeks I was delighted to see that two pair of osprey were occupying both platform nests here in north Fort Collins, the one near Chapelle Animal Hospital, and the one at Willox and Shields. Have they nested here before? Were they raised here and are nesting for the first time? Where down south did they go this past winter? South America? Whenever the osprey show up, like the turkey vulture and the grackle, I know spring is officially started.

I am also happy to report that the red-tailed hawk nest that was active last year (one chick fledged) in the woods behind my house has birds nesting in it. There's a spotting scope set up on the deck and at any time of day I can usually see an adult sitting on the nest. Usually, it's tail-end toward me, but every once in a while I get a stunning glimpse of the face.

While new species are returning, sadly, my little juncos have disappeared. All winter long they ate millet seed on the walkway outside the kitchen window, and at first light, one hooded individual was always already there eating breakfast when I started my coffee. So, it appears they have done their vertical migration and headed for the hills. And the night time sounds of the great-horned owls, nesting I presume nearby the house, have been replaced with much coyote yipping in the wee hours.

And I mustn't forget the reptiles and amphibians, enjoying the dewy grass, increased insect populations, and bright sunshine to bask in. I've seen several snake-tails slithering in the yard, as well as one fat, greenish-brown toad, which I put in the vegetable garden, as he was being harassed by my dog. I hope he hangs out there all summer beneath the tomatoes and raspberries, enjoying the shade when the days get really hot, and evry once in a while, snapping up a bug or two.

Rhubarb Season--Make Ice Cream

It's springtime again, and nothing says spring like a homemade rhubarb pie or rhubarb muffins. But instead of baking, why not consider ice cream instead this time? This delicious recipe was passed on to me by a friend and I think it's worth sharing.

Rhubarb Ice Cream

INGREDIENTS:
4 stalks rhubarb, about 1 1/4 lbs  [about 3 cups diced rhubarb]
1 cup water
3/4 cup sugar
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup skim milk

DIRECTIONS:

1. Trim the ends of the rhubarb stalks and chop them into 1/2″ pieces.  Place the pieces in a saucepan with sugar and water on high heat.

2. Boil the rhubarb for about 10-15 minutes, or until broken down with a jelly-type consistency.

3. Remove the rhubarb from the saucepan, and blend or puree in a food processor until smooth. Place the pureed rhubarb in the refrigerator to cool for at least 2 hours.

4. Add cream and milk to the rhubarb and churn in an ice-cream machine for about 40 minutes, or until thick and creamy. Serve immediately, or freeze for a less-melty consistency.

Makes about 2 pints of ice cream.

http://www.sugarlaws.com/rhubarb-ice-cream  (accessed 25 May 2009. We like to give credit where credit is due.)

As with any fresh ice cream recipe, I've found you need to eat the product as quickly as possible for it to taste its best. So if you can't handle two pints yourself, invite a friend or two over the day you make it.

I'd love to hear comments from any foodies out there.