Black bear eating from my apple tree, August night, 2012

Tuesday, March 20, 2012

Driving in Costa Rica--My Two Cents

It seems as if everyone—including me—has been to Costa Rica lately, or is planning to go.  While it’s a special place full of natural wonders (rain and cloud forests, Pacific and Caribbean beaches, volcanoes, wildlife) and the people there are welcoming, driving was a challenge for me.  I thought I’d share some of my thoughts in case any readers out there are trying to decide whether or not to rent a vehicle during their time in Costa Rica.
1.       If you decide you want to explore various parts of the country, which is about the size of West Virginia, you should rent a car. Costa Rican car rental agencies will equip you with a great GPS system for a nominal fee. Pay for it. There are practically NO SIGNS whatsoever indicating streets and highways. While the GPS was a godsend, it pays to look at a road map before you set out so that you have a basic idea of where you are supposed to be going. Our GPS went wacky on us for a half hour and sent us in the opposite direction of our destination. Only because we knew we were supposed to be headed west, not east (and we actually looked at the position of the sun for guidance) did we realize we needed to reboot the little computer. No problems after that.
2.       You cannot estimate driving times, period. Most roads are two-lane and passing is tricky. If you are going through mountains, you will be stuck behind some large, slow-moving vehicles. The speed limit varies, and while many locals admit to going over the limit, the slow-moving trucks will always make for a longer-than-anticipated trip.
3.       Speaking of passing—it can be quite intimidating to pass, but pass you must. I think the couple of gray hairs I came home with are due to passing other vehicles in Costa Rica. I talked to one of our shuttle drivers while there, and he admits that it’s scary to pass on a solid yellow center line, especially going around hairpin turns in the mountains, but that it’s “necessary” in order to keep on any kind of schedule. So other drivers will be passing, even if they aren’t supposed to, sometimes heading blind into traffic. Be aware of this when you can’t see oncoming traffic—a passer may be approaching around the bend.
4.       Some of the roads are terrible. As in, the fillings in your teeth will fall out from the bumps and you may exit the car with actual bruises from being tossed around. These roads cannot be navigated over 5 or 6 miles an hour. Ask someone before you set out what the road conditions might be and if there’s a better—albeit longer—route you can take. This happened when I followed the GPS instructions from the Pacific coast to Monteverde. The road was unbelievably horrible, and locals later told me there’s a bad but not-as-terrible alternate route that was a longer trip. I’d have gladly driven farther and spared myself the jostling around.
5.       Given that many roads are extremely poor, rent the largest vehicle you can afford. Normally, I would never, ever suggest that someone rent anything other than the smallest car to get you, your companions, and your luggage from point A to point B. However, being thrown around in a tiny, low-clearance, economy car was extremely unpleasant. Next trip I’m renting an SUV.
6.       Gas stations are not always easy to find. When your gas gauge gets to a quarter tank, stop at the first gas station you see. Gasoline prices are regulated in Costa Rica, so the price per gallon should be the same everywhere. This does not apply to rental car companies by the way. They can charge whatever they want if you return your car with less than a full tank, so plan on filling up right before you drop the vehicle off.
7.       Consider a combination of renting a vehicle and using transportation services. For example, we had a shuttle (Volcano Shuttle, to be specific) take us to and from the airport but rented a car mid-vacation to go exploring, once we got more comfortable with our surroundings.
8.       Finally, for the most part, Costa Rica is incredibly safe to explore, but property crime is an issue. Don’t leave anything of value, or anything that looks valuable to someone peering in from the outside, in a vehicle, even if it’s locked. A thief will break a window for even a low-value item, so it’s best not to flaunt anything at all. Just clear out the car. And if you have the option, park in a secure, well-lit area.
I thoroughly enjoyed my travels in Costa Rica, and especially loved driving by all the fruit stands on Highway 1, where folks sold watermelons, coconut water, and other delicacies. For a few dollars we were able to pick up fresh smoothie fixin’s not to be had in the states for such a price.
Don't be intimidated by anything I just wrote. After you've spent money on airfare and taken the well-deserved vacation time off from work, it seems silly to avoid exploring this fabulous country because the driving is a challenge. Rent a car when you know you'll want to get out on your own and take advantage of spontaneity. Leave the pros behind the wheel when you simply want to get someplace as quickly as possible.

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